5 Great Reasons to
Visit Kolkata Now

For much of the 20th century, Kolkata was largely overlooked by travelers to India, who tended to focus on the Golden Triangle of Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur, the glitter of Mumbai, and the laid-back coastal vibes of Goa and Kerala. Today finds India’s seventh-largest city undergoing a renaissance. Those who know Kolkata (formerly Calcutta) celebrate its uniqueness: as a traditional yet forward-looking metropolis, and the longtime intellectual, literary, and creative capital of India.  •  Kolkata unfolds at high speed to a soundtrack of clanging trams, street chatter, and the churn of the mighty Hugli River. Best, then, to get an overview of the city in motion: Start with a Kolkata Heritage Tram Tour, which makes extended stops at the Mother House (the final resting place of Mother Teresa) and Sacred Heart Church where she ministered. Also on the itinerary are historic landmarks like Hindu temple Birla Mandir and the South Park Street Cemetery, where more than 12,000 employees of the British East India Company are buried. On foot, feel the pulse of the city down the alleyways of old markets, where the scent of fresh shingaras (the Bengali version of samosas) mingles with the sound of traffic. Calcutta Walks brings the city alive with its Melting Pot Walk, which explores Kolkata’s Chinese, Armenian, and Jewish communities and their cultures. Then there’s the river. Twice a month, The Barge Company offers sundowners aboard its beautifully decked-out vessels. It also hosts The Hooghly Breakfast Club, a curated experience in partnership with Immersive Trails Global that includes breakfast aboard MV Desire and pit stops to explore traces of Danish, French, and Portuguese colonies along the riverbanks. Pro tip: Follow @thebargecompany on Instagram for updates on the bimonthly high tea aboard The Bengal Paddle, a meticulously restored paddle steamer from the 1940s with an on-ship museum in the former boiler room.

At Avartana in the ITC Royal Bengal hotel, the city’s first tasting-menu-only restaurant, classic South Indian flavors — tamarind, banana peppers, coconut, curry leaves — receive a fine-dining makeover. Stir-fry chicken comes with buttermilk mousse and curry-leaf tempura; shrimp and coriander dumplings with chili coriander jam pack a punch. Meanwhile, at Sienna, chef Avinandan Kundu celebrates the bounty of Bengal: For its golda chingri, freshwater prawns are grilled and finished with a brûléed “brain marrow” hollandaise, using the bright orange roe from the head of the prawn to add an extra punch. For vegetarians, the mochar salad highlights the banana flower, dressed with tamarind and jaggery for an earthy, tangy taste. Sachiko Seth at Popo’s honors her grandfather’s heritage through Tibetan-Chinese comfort food. It’s the kind of place where you’ll want to order everything from the bread section just to lap up the creamy datshi (yak milk cheese) while the yak and chhurpi spring roll and Losar pork roast prove that even unfamiliar flavors can be comforting. “Comfort transcends cuisine,” says Seth, and it shows.

Kolkata’s bar scene is shedding its whisky-with-water traditions and getting creative. At Nutcase Etc., a 34-seater inside the 109-year-old Skinny Mo’s Jazz Club, the bar itself is the focal point — an interactive stage where bartenders craft drinks like Tangra Town, an homage to the city’s Chinese community. This Patrón-based drink blends extracted flavors of chicken broth, scallion, onions, bell peppers, and soy, delivering a delicious balance despite the seemingly odd-sounding combination. Across town, ATM Members Bar in 1910 Galleria, known for its colonial-era architecture, is perfect for those who love house-party vibes. A short drive away is the Conversation Room, new since November but designed to feel like an old neighborhood bar with scribbles on the walls (guests are encouraged to leave their mark). The bar has pedigree yet gets playful: Floats Your Boat mixes Dewar’s 12 and Jägermeister (yowza) with hints of vanilla ice cream, ginger honey, and lime, serving it up in a martini glass like a well-made soda float. Meanwhile, AMPM, celebrating its first anniversary, has cemented itself as a go-to for effortlessly cool cocktails like the vodka-based Red Lantern and for its eclectic lineup of live gigs. At Little Bit Sober, ranked no. 35 on India’s Best Bars, the city’s cocktail revolution finds its anchor — proof that Kolkata now knows and loves its drinks with nuance and a bit of mischief.

Kolkata’s love for heritage and design now has a fitting sanctuary — Good Earth has arrived in the upscale neighborhood Ballygunge, setting up its flagship in a classic midcentury Bengali bungalow. With vintage floors, sunlit verandas, and curated spaces, the store feels more like the well-appointed manse of a beloved auntie with a penchant for collectibles. Every corner invites you to linger, from the bar with its echoes of the Mughal era to the tearoom in delicate paisleys and bright tangerines. You’ll find plenty of gift inspiration among the candles, handmade journals, and fragrant soaps with traces of rose, jasmine, vetiver, and sandalwood. Meanwhile, Bobo Calcutta continues to make waves with its bold, pop art–inspired designs, celebrating self-expression in a city that has always thrived on creativity. The latest collection, “Forest of Illusions,” features embroidered prints evoking a divine wilderness. Look closely to spot the faces of Devi, mother goddess of India, a key element of Kolkata’s cultural fabric. 

To walk down Park Street is to experience Kolkata in its truest form — a heady mix of food, art, and music wrapped in nostalgia. Start at the Indian Museum, the country’s oldest, housing centuries of history in its collection of artifacts. The museum is particularly famous for its Gandhara gallery, where sculptures depicting the Buddha’s life date from between the first century BC to the fourth century AD. Then move to Chitrakoot Art Gallery, the city’s oldest commercial gallery, and Galerie 88, where contemporary art finds its voice. In between stops, grab a kathi roll from Kusum Roll’s; it always has a queue outside. Mildly hot, with a layer of fried egg, this wrap is worth waiting for. As the night deepens, step into Trincas, the beating heart of Park Street’s nightlife, where a velvet-clad stage sets the scene for Indian jazz legends such as Louis Banks and Gino Banks, while Usha Uthup, who began her career here in 1969, still returns to captivate the crowd. If you’re lucky, you might catch Rani KoH-E-nur, one of India’s top drag artists, commanding the stage.